Machines don't generally make your work any better, but they allow you to finish the work sooner and save wear and tear on joints, ligaments and tendons. As with hand tools get them only as you need em. Buy one at a time and do your homework first.
These are the primary tools in today's workshop
Get this tool first. Make sure its heavy and stiff. Go for a cast iron base, table and head with a large diameter steel column. A proper drill will not only cut better but it makes drilling hard materials much easier. It has slower speeds than an electric hand operated drill so the drill bits don't burn out on you. Find one with a self locking taper in the spindle so that chucks can be changed if need be. Never hold the workpiece by hand. Use a machine vise and clamp it to the drill table instead. Centerpunch the hole prior to drilling.
You might not want to throw away your hacksaw just yet but once you haul this beast into the shop you'l find yourself looking for all kinds of excuses to use it even if it does scream like a banshee and scare the living daylights out of you every time you start it up.
In the States they use 2 by 72 inch belts for blade grinding.
In Europe the standard size in that range is the 5cm by 200cm belt.
You can go for a shorter belt but the heat tends to build up quicker in the workpiece and the belt as a result. The width is important. That 2 inch or 5cm width is about ideal for knifemaking. Bob Engnaths site has excelent instructions for use. The 1 by thirty inch belt grinder is handy for shaping around corners in the handle.
Good for making flats. Go for the biggest diameter you can find.
Like a hacksaw on steroids it won't work miracles and frequently has guidance gremlins built in as standard. Many knifemakers modify the guidance mount. Go for an inexpensive one.
A rotary 10 inch wetstone will flatten very well and allow reshaping and grinding after heatreat without any possibility of overheating. I get the impression that few knifemakers go this route but I like this tool.
These tools are recommended if not strictly required.
These cut on the pull stroke. Very handy for cutting out handle slabs. Great for going around corners.
Inert gas shield prevents oxidation yielding cleaner welds in stainless
The ultimate dremmel tool. The same high rpm but with much more torque.
Measuring tools enhance accuracy.
Rockwell C tester
Pick one up if you come across it.. You can learn a lot from this.
This is the job for serious leatherwork.
Mine was stolen. It was serial #7007.
Very, very good. Not strictly a powertool but definitely a machine. Its the only Boss I ever missed.
Now your getting serious
Cutting interframes, slotting etc.
Turning and threading the intricate parts in specialty folders.
The lathe is usefull for faceing, cylindical cutting both inside and out and parting operations. It can also be used to cut tapers screwthreads and cams.
The workpiece is rotated about an axis using a chuck. Self centering three jaw chucks are the most comonly used but the independant four jaw chuck in tandem with a good dial guage is capable of centering oddly shaped items.and can even be made to run the workpiece eccentrically. Collets are used to hold small workpieces. The work can be mounted between centers. The headstock and tailstock must be on the same axis.
The cutting edge is mounted in a toolpost which is moved relative to the lathe axis to effect the cut. The edge is positioned at center height.
Noisy beast. Forget it if your in the city..
You can cut gears with these things.
The ultimate tool for making flats.
One shot welding. Quite enough for city use.
Free energy and torque to die for.:-)