The scale tang knife construction


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Applying the scale tang.
Draw an outline of the tang on two flat pieces of wood that are about a quarter inch thick. Saw around the outline as close to the line as possible without straying over it.
The mating surface of each scale is prepared with sandpaper so that it is flat and makes a good join with the tang. This can be checked by viewing edge on against a bright light. The tang itself is roughened with sandpaper in the area that will be covered by the scale. This is to ensure a good key for the glue.
The leading edge of each scale is prebeveled and smoothed to final shape to avoid having to do this later when it would be more difficult. This also allows one to match each leading edge to the other, for good symmetry.





The first scale is glued to the tang using string to hold the scale in place and apply preasure to the join. Glue should be applied to both surfaces. String is used to bind the scale to the tang instead of clamps because it distributes the load more evenly and is more forgiving. The string should not be too tight or it will apply so much preasure to the join that it presses the glue out leaving a dry join.

Once the glue is dried the scale is drilled using the tang holes as a template. Don't drill too enthusiastically lest you over heat the glue around the hole and weaken the join. Also ensure the scale is backed by another piece of wood so that it does not splinter when the drill breaks through. Make sure your drill is perpendicular to the center plane of the blade.

The second scale is glued, and care is taken to ensure it lines up with the leading edge of the first scale. This is made easier by the use of string which has a little give and allows one to move the scale for optimum positioning. Notice how the wood has been preshaped at the leading edge.

Side two is drilled in the same manner as side one. Drill size should be a couple of thou over pin size to leave a little space for the glue and ease pin insertion. Or the hole can be reamed a little oversize for the same result. Do not use an interferance fit for pins as this will lead to a dry joint. Again it is very important to square the drill to the center plane of the blade. Sand pins to provide a key for the glue then coat both pins and holes.

Pins are inserted into holes and once the glue is cured, they are then cut and sanded flush to the scale surface.

Outside of scales are trimmed to tang using progessively finer sandpaper or surform until tang edge and wood are clean and smooth. It's important to make sure that everything is squared up at this point.

The grip is shaped, sanded and smoothed. The glue bead which has formed as a result of glue being extruded from the leading edge of the scale is popped off by inserting a sharp knife blade between wood and bead.

The grip is finished with tung oil or cyanoacrylate or some other sealant.



Sharpen and make a sheath for it and you got the best knife in the world, the one you made yourself.
If you want to go a little fancier you can use the same techniques to make bolsters for the knife. Simply be sure to countersink holes in bolster material and peen pins.
Now that you have tackled the scale tang, you are ready for a real challenge, the Stub tang.
But first why not make the sheath for it.

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Fri May 9 21:23:20 2008   Last modified on 11/01/2008   Filesize: 6,704/fulltang.html